I remember when the Hyatt opened, and we all wanted it to make it, and it was so ill conceived from the beginning. When I went to dinner there, for instance, the hapless young staff had been taught that good service consisted of hovering around the table and smoothing the napkin in your lap and giving you a clean napkin if you left the table for a moment. It was a smothering kind of excess that was not matched by a high-quality menu. I think it stayed open for six months or so.
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